Technical Repair Manual

Caloric GFS207 Refrigerator
Thermostat & Defrost Timer Replacement

Model Family: GFS207 / GFS227*02 / GFS271*10
Repairs: Cold Control + Defrost Timer
Skill Level: Beginner–Intermediate
Est. Time: 45–90 minutes

Symptom Overview & Diagnosis

This manual covers two repairs for a common failure pattern on the GFS207: an intermittent cold control thermostat and an aging defrost timer. Both parts live in the same interior control housing, so they are replaced together in a single service visit.

⚠ Confirm your symptoms match before ordering parts
Freezer temperature climbs to 20–22 °F while the fridge is completely silent (no compressor, no fans). Wiggling or turning the "Fridge Temp" knob reliably restarts the unit. Power-cycling (unplug 5–10 min, replug, move knob) also restores normal operation. When running, temperatures and sounds are normal.

The thermostat's internal contacts have developed an intermittent open—mechanical movement of the knob temporarily closes them. The defrost timer is replaced preventively; on older units it can stick in defrost mode and lock out the compressor until power is interrupted.

Parts Required

Part No.
Description
Ref No.
37189
Cold Control Thermostat — primary suspect; the "Fridge Temp" knob assembly. Note: Part 311127 on the same sheet is for the GFS271*10 variant only — do not substitute.
Ref. 10
57862
Defrost Timer — small motor-driven timer box; replaced preventively due to age and intermittent-cooling history.
Ref. 6

Search either part number on RepairClinic, AppliancePartsPros, or Sears PartsDirect. Confirm model number on the label inside the fresh-food door jamb before ordering.

Tools & Materials

Phillips #2 screwdriver Flat-head screwdriver Needle-nose pliers Multimeter (optional) Masking tape + marker Smartphone (photos) Flashlight or headlamp Small container for screws
🔴 Safety First — Read Before Starting
Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet before touching any internal components. These repairs do not require moving the fridge. Do not attempt any step with power connected. If the fridge is on a 20 A dedicated circuit, confirm the cord is fully withdrawn from the outlet.

Control Housing — Component Overview

Both parts are located in the interior control housing: the plastic box mounted at the top of the fresh-food compartment. It contains the interior light socket, the cold control thermostat (with "Fridge Temp" knob), and the defrost timer.

INTERIOR — FRESH-FOOD COMPARTMENT (top, viewed from front) CONTROL HOUSING LIGHT THERMO- STAT P/N 37189 KNOB DEFROST TIMER P/N 57862 SHAFT HARNESS capillary tube COMPRESSOR + FANS ① Cold Control (Primary) Intermittent contacts → replace ② Defrost Timer Age/stuck risk → replace ○ = cover screws
Fig. 1 — Control housing layout, Caloric GFS207 (schematic, not to scale)

Procedure 1 — Accessing the Control Housing

  1. 1
    Unplug the refrigerator. Pull the power cord fully from the wall. Do not proceed until this is done.
  2. 2
    Empty the top shelf of the fresh-food compartment to give yourself clear access to the control housing overhead.
  3. 3
    Photograph the control area with your phone before touching anything — capture the knob position, wire colors, and any visible screw locations. You will reference these photos during reassembly.
  4. 4
    Remove cover screws. Using a Phillips #2, remove the screws securing the plastic control-housing cover (typically 2–4 screws; see ○ positions in Fig. 1). Place screws in your container.
  5. 5
    Lower or swing open the housing cover. The cover may hinge downward or detach completely. Work slowly — the light socket and wiring harness are still attached. Do not yank.
  6. 6
    Take a second set of reference photos now showing the fully exposed interior: wire colors at each terminal on both the thermostat and defrost timer.

Procedure 2 — Replace Cold Control Thermostat (P/N 37189)

A. Remove the old thermostat

  1. 1
    Pull the "Fridge Temp" knob straight off its shaft. It should pull free without tools. Set it aside.
  2. 2
    Label each wire before disconnecting. Use masking tape + marker or stick-on labels: write the terminal name (e.g., "C", "1", "2") on each wire. Refer to your reference photos.
  3. 3
    Disconnect wires from the thermostat terminals. Most are push-on spade connectors — grip the connector body (not the wire) with needle-nose pliers and pull straight off.
  4. 4
    Unscrew or unclip the thermostat body from its mounting bracket. Note the orientation — the replacement must sit the same way.
  5. 5
    Carefully withdraw the capillary/sensing bulb. This is a thin copper tube that runs from the thermostat body into a channel clipped along the interior wall. Do not kink or sharply bend it — a kink can damage the replacement part. Work it free gently along its entire routed path.

B. Install the new thermostat

  1. 1
    Route the new capillary bulb through the same channel the old one occupied. The bulb end should terminate at the same position (usually near the evaporator air channel). Avoid sharp bends; gentle curves only.
  2. 2
    Mount the thermostat body in the bracket, matching the same orientation as the original.
  3. 3
    Reconnect all wires to the correct terminals using your labels and reference photos. Push each spade connector firmly onto its terminal until it seats.
  4. 4
    Reinstall the "Fridge Temp" knob by pressing it onto the shaft. Align the indicator mark to the mid-range position.

Procedure 3 — Replace Defrost Timer (P/N 57862)

  1. 1
    Locate the defrost timer — a small plastic box (roughly 2" × 3") with a rotating dial or exposed shaft, adjacent to the thermostat in the control housing. On some GFS207 units it may be mounted on a side wall of the control cavity rather than directly on the housing board.
  2. 2
    Photograph the wires before disconnecting — four colored wires connect to the timer terminals. Labeling is strongly recommended here as terminal positions matter.
  3. 3
    Remove retaining screws or squeeze the mounting clips to free the timer body from its bracket.
  4. 4
    Disconnect the wiring harness plug (or individual spade connectors) from the old timer.
  5. 5
    Install the new timer in the same orientation. Reconnect all wires to the correct terminals per your labels/photos. Secure in its bracket.
  6. 6
    Manually advance the timer shaft with a flat-head screwdriver, turning clockwise until you hear/feel a distinct click. This advances the timer out of any defrost cycle into cooling mode, ensuring the compressor can start immediately when powered on.
DEFROST TIMER 57862 ← advance with flat-head Term. BK (Common) Term. OR (Defrost Heater) Term. BR (Compressor) Term. RD (Fans) FIG. 2 — DEFROST TIMER TERMINAL LAYOUT (TYPICAL)
Actual wire colors may vary — always confirm with reference photos taken in Step 2

Reassembly

  1. 1
    Verify all wire connections are firmly seated on both the thermostat and timer.
  2. 2
    Tuck all wiring back into the control housing without pinching any conductors.
  3. 3
    Close or raise the housing cover and reinstall all screws. Do not overtighten plastic bosses — snug is sufficient.
  4. 4
    Confirm the "Fridge Temp" knob is installed and set to the mid-range position (typically marked "5" or the center detent).

Post-Repair Testing

  1. 1
    Plug the refrigerator back in. Stand by for the first 2–3 minutes.
  2. 2
    Listen for the compressor and condenser fan to start within 1–3 minutes. You should hear a low hum from the compressor and airflow from the interior evaporator fan. If nothing starts after 5 minutes, unplug immediately and re-check wiring connections.
  3. 3
    Allow 2–4 hours for temperatures to stabilize. The freezer should reach 0–5 °F and the fresh-food compartment 35–38 °F.
  4. 4
    Verify no knob-wiggling is needed. The unit should start, run, cycle off, and restart entirely on its own over the following 24 hours without any intervention.
✔ Success Criteria
Compressor and fans start automatically · Freezer holds 0–5 °F · Fresh food holds 35–38 °F · Unit does not require knob manipulation or power-cycling to restart after a normal off-cycle.
⚠ Also Recommended (While You Have Access)
Inspect and vacuum the condenser coils (typically at the back or underneath the unit). Dust buildup on coils forces the compressor to run hotter and longer, shortening its life. This takes 10 minutes with a vacuum and brush attachment.

Final Checklist

Additional Resources